Resources · Glossary
Yarn glossary.
A reference for textile buyers, designers, and procurement teams. 35 terms covering yarn composition, texture types, measurement units, manufacturing processes, sustainability standards, and performance properties.
Composition
7 terms
- Polyester (PET)
- A synthetic fibre derived from polyethylene terephthalate, valued in interior textiles for its high tensile strength, dimensional stability, colourfastness, and resistance to wrinkling and shrinking. The most widely-used fibre in fancy yarn manufacturing for upholstery, drapery, and contract furnishing.
- Cotton
- A natural cellulosic fibre prized for its breathability, soft hand-feel, and excellent dye absorption. In fancy yarn, cotton is used either at 100% or blended with polyester for fabrics requiring a natural aesthetic and tactile comfort.
- Cationic Polyester
- A modified polyester engineered to accept cationic (basic) dyes, producing deeper, more vivid colours than standard disperse-dyed polyester. Often blended with regular polyester to create cross-dyed fabrics with multi-tonal effects.
- Linen
- A natural bast fibre from the flax plant, characterised by a crisp hand-feel, slight irregularity, and natural lustre. In fancy yarn, linen is typically blended with polyester (e.g., 80/20) to combine the natural look with synthetic durability.
- Acrylic
- A synthetic fibre with a soft, wool-like hand-feel and excellent UV resistance. Commonly blended with polyester for upholstery yarns where softness and outdoor performance are required.
- Viscose (Rayon)
- A regenerated cellulosic fibre with a silk-like drape and excellent dye uptake. In fancy yarn, viscose is often blended with polyester to create yarns with luxurious sheen and fluid hand-feel suitable for drapery and decorative fabrics.
- Polyester FR (Flame Retardant)
- A polyester variant chemically modified or treated for inherent flame resistance, used in contract upholstery, hospitality interiors, and public-space furnishing where fire-safety regulations apply (e.g., BS 5852, NFPA 701).
Yarn Types
5 terms
- Fancy Yarn
- Any yarn with intentional decorative variations in structure, colour, or texture, distinct from plain (regular) yarn. Fancy yarns include slub, boucle, curly, neppy, chenille, and lurex constructions, used to add visual depth and tactile interest to woven and knitted fabrics.
- Slub Yarn
- A yarn with intentional thick-and-thin variations along its length, creating a textured, irregular appearance in the woven fabric. Slubs add an artisanal, hand-loomed aesthetic to interior textiles and are widely used in upholstery, curtains, and cushion fabrics.
- Boucle Yarn
- A yarn featuring small loops, curls, or kinks projecting from the surface, producing a distinctive looped texture in the finished fabric. Boucle yarns are favoured for cushion covers, throws, and contemporary upholstery for their tactile, sculptural quality.
- Curly Yarn
- A yarn with a continuous spiralled or coiled structure, creating a soft, three-dimensional surface texture in the woven fabric. Curly yarns are used in decorative furnishing fabrics where movement and visual depth are desired.
- Neppy Yarn
- A yarn embedded with small nubs or "neps" of contrasting fibre or colour, producing a flecked or speckled effect in the finished fabric. Neppy yarns are used to add visual interest and a heathered look to interior textiles.
Measurement
5 terms
- Denier (Dn)
- A unit of linear mass density equal to the mass in grams per 9,000 metres of yarn. The higher the denier, the thicker and heavier the yarn. Citius Textiles produces fancy yarns from 550 Dn (fine) to 30,000 Dn (industrial).
- Tex
- The mass in grams per 1,000 metres of yarn. Tex is a more SI-aligned unit than denier; conversion is straightforward (1 Tex = 9 Denier). Used widely in technical specifications across textile engineering.
- Nm (Metric Count)
- The number of metres of yarn per gram (Nm = metres / gram). Higher Nm indicates a finer yarn. Conversion: Nm = 9000 / Denier. For example, 1100 Denier ≈ 8.2 Nm.
- Ne (English Count)
- The number of 840-yard hanks of yarn per pound (mostly used in the cotton system). Higher Ne indicates a finer yarn. Conversion: Ne = 5315 / Denier (cotton system).
- GSM (Grams per Square Metre)
- The weight of finished fabric per square metre. While GSM measures fabric (not yarn), it is the downstream specification yarn buyers reference when matching yarn count to fabric weight requirements (typically 150–500 GSM for furnishing).
Process
5 terms
- Air-Jet Texturing (ATY)
- A texturing process that uses high-pressure air to entangle and loop continuous filament yarn, producing a yarn with bulk, hand-feel, and surface variation that mimics spun yarn while retaining filament strength. Widely used for upholstery and outdoor furnishing yarns.
- Friction Texturing
- A texturing method that imparts crimp and bulk to filament yarn using friction discs operating at high speed, producing yarns with elasticity, soft hand-feel, and good covering power. Common in apparel and furnishing yarns.
- Twisting
- The process of rotating fibres or filaments around their axis to bind them into a coherent yarn. Twist level (TPI / TPM) directly affects yarn strength, elasticity, hand-feel, and texture. Fancy yarns often combine differential twist rates to create visual effects.
- Doubling
- The process of combining two or more single yarns by twisting them together, producing a stronger, more uniform plied yarn. Doubled fancy yarns offer improved tensile strength and surface stability for high-stress applications like sofa upholstery.
- Heat-setting
- A controlled heating treatment that stabilises synthetic yarns (polyester, nylon) at a set physical configuration, locking in twist, crimp, and dimensional stability. Heat-set yarns resist shrinkage and elongation in downstream weaving and finishing.
Standards
4 terms
- GRS (Global Recycled Standard)
- An international standard administered by Textile Exchange that verifies recycled content, chain-of-custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions in textile products. Citius Textiles holds GRS certification CU1327617GRS-2025-00060723 from Control Union.
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100
- A worldwide testing and certification system that verifies textiles are free from harmful substances. Required by many international buyers as proof that yarns and fabrics are safe for human contact.
- GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
- A certification standard for organic fibres covering ecological and social criteria across the supply chain. Applies to yarns containing certified organic cotton, wool, or other natural fibres.
- BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)
- A global non-profit initiative that promotes more sustainable cotton farming practices. BCI-certified cotton is sourced from farms following social, environmental, and economic standards verified through independent assessment.
Properties
4 terms
- Tensile Strength
- The maximum tensile (pulling) load a yarn can withstand before breaking, typically measured in cN/tex or grams per denier. Critical for upholstery and high-stress applications where yarn failure equals fabric failure.
- Elongation at Break
- The percentage increase in length a yarn undergoes from its original length to the point of rupture. Determines fabric stretch behaviour and is a key spec for weaving stability.
- Colourfastness
- The resistance of yarn (and resulting fabric) to colour fading or transfer when exposed to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, or solvents. Tested per ISO 105 or AATCC standards. Polyester and acrylic yarns typically score highest.
- Martindale Test
- A standardised abrasion-resistance test (ISO 12947) measuring how many double-rubs a fabric withstands before showing wear. Upholstery fabrics for residential use typically need 15,000–30,000 cycles; commercial use requires 30,000–100,000+.
Applications
5 terms
- Upholstery
- Fabric and material covering used on furniture seating (sofas, chairs, ottomans). Upholstery yarn requires high tensile strength, abrasion resistance (Martindale 25,000+), and colourfastness. Typical denier range: 2,000–5,000 Dn.
- Drapery
- Fabric used for window curtains and decorative wall hangings. Drapery yarn prioritises drape (fluid fall), light filtration characteristics, and surface aesthetics over mechanical strength. Typical denier range: 550–1,400 Dn.
- Cushion Cover
- Decorative removable fabric covering for throw pillows and cushions. Cushion cover yarns favour distinctive textures (slub, boucle, neppy) that create visual interest at close viewing distance. Typical denier range: 1,100–3,200 Dn.
- Carpet
- Heavy-pile floor covering manufactured by tufting or weaving. Carpet yarn requires high denier (4,000–9,000+ Dn), exceptional abrasion resistance, and crush recovery. Polyester and nylon dominate the segment.
- Home Furnishing Fabric
- A broad category covering all woven and knitted textiles used in residential interiors — upholstery, drapery, cushions, throws, table linens, and decorative wall coverings. Citius Textiles produces fancy yarns engineered specifically for this segment.
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